The Alms Procession

January 11, 2009, report by Karma Palmo, photos taken by Karma Norbu, Pema Orser Dorje

On the last day of the Kagyu Sangha Monlam Chenmo, after the second session of the day, gelongs and gelongmas (bhiksus and bhiksunis) prepared for the Alms Procession. This procession of fully ordained monastics from the Mahabodhi Stupa to the Deer Park was instituted by His Holiness Karmapa five years ago to follow the traditional alms walk that the monastics of some Buddhist traditions make in their daily lives to receive their food. His Holiness also wanted for eight days to recreate, along with some other original Vinaya practices, the alms walk that ordained monastics undertook daily at the time of the Buddha.

While the lay people and other monks and nuns gathered along the route of the procession with their offerings of sweets, fruits, biscuits, nuts and dried fruits and snacks, the monastics began lining up inside the Mahabodhi Stupa complex, wearing their chogos and namjars and carrying their dingwas (sitting mats) over their arms.

His Eminence Gyaltsab Rinpoche led the procession, carrying the traditional monk’s staff with its jangling rings. Behind him, and also carrying staffs, came Gawang Rinpoche, Mingyur Rinpoche and Khenpo Lodro Donyo Rinpoche. Then the most senior gelongs began to assemble and slowly made their way up the back steps of the complex to the outer circumambulation path, receiving the begging bowl in their two hands as they went. Turning right at the top of the steps, they slowly and carefully walked around the Stupa towards the main front entrance, following the instructions in mindfulness of physical deportment and thoughts that His Holiness had given the evening before.
The small group of twelve western and Chinese gelongmas practicing in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition joined the end of the procession, followed by a line of Korean bhiksunis. As the column of monastics progressed around the Stupa, moving slowly and decorously in their yellow robes, it was a cause for rejoicing that in the 21st century, so many fully ordained monks and nuns could still gather in one place with one mind and be a source of inspiration for devotees.

At the main entrance to the Mahabodhi Stupa, His Holiness Karmapa stood with Jamgon Kongtrul Rinpoche and Kalu Rinpoche, watching the procession make its way through the entrance gates and out towards the Stupa courtyard. From the stillness of the Stupa precinct, the procession emerged into the street to meet head-on the crowds of followers who were enthusiastically pressing against the barrier. Through their hands seemed to pour an endless stream of foods into the bowls, which had to be emptied into large bags by volunteers as the procession moved along. The devotion and generosity of the people at that moment seemed to know no bounds, and in particular Tibetan women frequently touched the bowls and the hands of the monastics with their own hands or with their rosaries, quietly chanting prayers and mantras. Chinese people uttered ‘Amitofo’ as the procession passed by. As the gelongmas walked, many comments such as, ‘ani khenmo’, ‘gelongma’, ‘gendun ani’, and ‘here come the bhiksunis’ could be heard from the gathering.

From time to time people showered the procession with handfuls of marigolds and flower petals and called prayers. The atmosphere was charged with emotion and intensity.

Finally, as the monastics entered the Deer Park, they emptied their bowls for the last time, and walked towards the lawn to lay down their dingwas on the long mats laid out in rows, and sat down to wait silently until all were assembled. His Holiness Karmapa and other lamas had already arrived from the Mahabodhi Stupa and observed the procession arrive and be seated. He then walked along between the rows of monastics, watching as the food was served out by volunteers in green jackets.

The incredible amount of work involved in preparing food for more than 500 people, transporting it from Tergar Monastery to the Park, laying out all the mats and utensils, serving the food, still hot, to the monastics, and then collecting up everything, returning it to the monastery and cleaning and washing huge saucepans and serving pots, begging bowls and spoons, is quite awesome! The logistics – amazing! The humble devotion and offering of service of the volunteers who attended the monastics on this and every day is to be commended.

The weather smiled on the assembly, as the sun came out and many birds sang melodious songs from the treetops. A cool breeze blew, it seemed as if perfume floated in the air, and the moment felt timeless, as if it could easily have been the time of the Buddha who walked in this very place himself so long ago. The setting was tranquil and seemed a thousand miles away from the chaotic Bodh Gaya street outside the Park wall.

After chanting the food offering prayers and mantras, the begging bowls were raised, the food was eaten, and at the end of the meal final dedication prayers were recited. His Holiness left the Deer Park to return to Tergar Monastery, and monastics also left for a short rest until the afternoon session of Lama Chopa, Offerings to the Guru, began.